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Wynn Las Vegas

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Cuisine: Japanese

Review by Sarah Lee Marks

Okada is the world-class Japanese restaurant at Wynn Las Vegas, named after Steve Wynn's business partner, Kazuu Okada. As such, it's the centerpiece of the Wynn restaurant line-up, with a Japanese-garden setting inside and out: lush greenery, tranquil lagoon with a waterfall, and a single private-pagoda dining table on the patio overlooking the mountain. The limited number of tables and the generous spacing among them bring a feeling of privacy and privilege to the room.

The menu starts with miso soups ($6-$10), salads ($9-$20), and noodles ($12-$17). Appetizers include Japanese oysters ($15), ceviches ($18), Kobe carpaccio ($21), foie gras with barbecued eel ($23). Entrees range from tempura and teriyaki ($14-$28) to several caviar tastings ($65-$170). You can also order individual robatayaki, or Japanese shish-kebab, such as rice balls ($6) and king crab ($12); sushi, sashimi, and rolls ($4-$18), and teppanyaki dinners ($45 for chicken to $150 for Kobe beef).

We started with the salad of seared tuna on a bed of shiitake mushrooms ($20), then had the seared foie gras and eel with miso mustard, then the Kurobuta beef short ribs. The robatayaki grill, featuring white Japanese charcoal, is the only one of its kind outside of Japan. Tiny skewers of beef tenderloin, shrimp, and lamb arrived on wood-trimmed plates with soy-citrus, garlic, and peppers. Not to be missed, the chef's special sushi lobster roll served on a two-foot-long smoked- glass plate shaped like an endive leaf ($28); the "Bad Hair Day of Gulf Shrimp" is best left to your imagination. If you have any room for dessert, your choice should be the passion fruit or mixed berries sorbet ($12).

Three servers, flawless in their explanations of the complex menu and sensitive to food allergies and other dietary concerns, attended to two of us. Our bill came to $160 without sake or tip.

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